The Galapagos Islands: Isabela Island

BFBIt has been 18 days since Chad and I have returned from the Galapagos Islands, but it seems like a lifetime ago.  Almost like a dream.  Were we really even there? The Galapagos are so otherworldly, that as soon as you leave, you feel very far removed from your time there.

Chad and I did a land-based itinerary, and our first stop was to Isabela Island, where we stayed for three days.  If you are deciding on whether you want to cruise the Galapagos or take a land-based vacation, please refer to this post. This post also gives you all the logistical information you will need to understand how to navigate visiting the islands on a land based itinerary and what you can expect during your travels.

Isabela Island is a lot less commercial than Santa Cruz Island. It feels more authentic, and you have a lot more interaction with the locals. We took a small regional flight (read: 8-seater prop plane) into Puerto Villamil, which is the largest town on the island. Although the island is volcanic, Puerto Villamil is surrounded by white sandy beaches. Upon arrival in Puerto Villamil, you must pay $10.00 USD per person in cash.ISABELA AIRPORT 2 ISABELA 3Day 1: We stayed at Iguana Crossings Hotel, which, by all accounts, is the nicest hotel in Puerto Villamil.  The hotel is an eco-hotel and is the most innovative on the island.  It is also beach front, so spring for an ocean view room.  Behind the hotel is a wildlife-filled lagoon. The only problem with staying at an eco-hotel is the water use restrictions. The water in the faucets and the showers were timed to 8 seconds, so you had to keep pressing to have the water flow.  Doesn’t seem so bad for the sink, but try showering in 8 second intervals! Also, the water takes some time to get hot.  Other than that, the hotel is lovely, the staff is very friendly, and the full breakfast (included with the room) is delicious.  IG crossThis is the view from our balcony:front viewbeachAnd this is the view from our bathroom: view from bathroomIt’s kinda nice to wake up to a flock of social flamingos cackling outside. Also, the sunset view wasn’t too shabby either! This is unfiltered, by the way:sunsetThe hotel is aptly named since it does indeed sit right before an actual crossing for iguanas; and for whatever reason, when they cross the dirt road, they do so at the actual crossing.IG cross2 iguanaBut we didn’t have too much time to linger on property, because just two hours after we landed, we were already off to our first adventure: a trip to Las Tintoreras! Las Tintoreras is a chain of small islets.  You must take a boat from the harbor about 10 minutes away to reach the small island.  On the way, you see plenty of manta rays and sea turtles.   sea turtlePrior to reaching Las Tintoreras, the boat took us on a small sea cruise where we spotted our first blue footed boobies and a penguin!boobie and penguinWe also met some local fishermen who were cleaning their day’s catch – the large and sweetly delicious Galapagos lobster, which we later ate for dinner that night.

lobster lobster2 lobster3Upon arrival, we were greeted by the plentiful Sally Lightfoot CrabscrabsWe disembarked from the small boat and began our island exploration.Los Tintoreras signBut for the wildlife, the island is uninhabited, and you must visit the island with a naturalist guide.  There is a trail full of iguanas (so watch your step) that leads to a bay that is located within a volcanic crack. From the crack, you can see white tip reef sharks.iguanas iguana and sharksIf you continue to follow the trail, you will find yourself on a deserted beach where sea lions hang out.sea lion on beachFrom there, you must turn around to return to the location where you boarded the boat and go to another little snorkel spot. Upon returning from the trip, we were greeted at the port with more lounging sea lions.sea lion on a benchDay 2: Today we had an early morning tour to Los Tuneles, a place where lava flows formed unique, arcs, tunnels, tubes, and lava bridges both above and below the ocean and offers some of the best snorkeling on Isabela Island; and, according to Chad, the best snorkel he had in all of the Galapagos! It was a regular ole’ sea sanctuary. It takes about 45 minutes to get there by boat, and, honestly, the waters can be kinda rough on the ride out. We weren’t too worried because our captain was a man they called the Ecuadorian John Travolta (and, I am still kicking myself for not getting a picture of him because he did look like a pudgier, Latin American John Travolta!), and his first mate was JESUS (of whom I managed to get a picture).

But, not to worry, because with a little internet magic, I found someone who had the forethought to snap a pic of John Travolta.  Now, obviously, this is not my photo – and I have no idea who those people are – but, I mean, seriously, does that man in the middle not look just like John Travolta? He has the bluest eyes (which you can’t see in the pic below, but, trust me, they are the color of his shirt), and they call him Travolta on the island.

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Anyway, he loves snorkeling, so he usually jumps in the water and joins you.  Jesus too! This is Jesus:jesusIs it not total perfection that he is holding a fish? So, on the way to Los Tunneles, you pass this rock where penguins usually hang, so the boat will stop to scope them out (cue major sea sickness, even if you aren’t prone to it). While you are busy spotting birds, Jesus throws out clear fishing line from a spool (like, he doesn’t even use a fishing rod) that has a hook at the end, and within seconds, he is pulling up fish by the dozens.bird rock bird rock2Snorkel time! In case you were wondering, while the water is clear, it is also cold (about 65 degrees Fahrenheit). Pretty much every tour operator has wet suits, masks, and fins for your use while snorkeling, and everyone went in with a wet suit.snorkel snorkel2After hitting two snorkel spots, you make your last stop at Los Tunneles, where you disembark and explore the lava tunnels and all the boobies waiting to welcome you! By the way, these pictures do not do this magnificent place any justice, like not at all.LT LT2Another fun fact about this incredible place – see the tall skinny cacti in the picture below? These are called candelabra cacti. They grow out of the volcanic rock at the rate of one centimeter per year (or about one meter every hundred years); so, the cactus on the left hand side of this picture is about 400-500 YEARS OLD! Pretty amazing, right? LT3 LT4 LT5 LT6 LT7 LT8 LT13 LT9 LT10 LT11 LT14Once back on Isabela, I stopped by for a visit with my sea lion friend again. LT15We had the rest of the afternoon free, so we decided to do some independent exploration. Every morning, we saw this bridge, and we wondered where it went, so we decided to find out.bridgeThe trail is about a mile long on pretty flat terrain.  It is a scenic route that has two flamingo lagoons along the way.  It also has some cute little rest areas.

trail 5 trail trail 2 trail 4But, it is what is at the end of the trail that is the real treat- a giant tortoise breeding center!turtlesAnd, in case you missed the first sign, there is this one here:
trutle4 turtle3 turtles2 turtles5Honestly, we are glad we came here because there were hardly any people, it is not at all touristy, it is free, and there are several tortoises from all stages of life in different pens.  Also, not to spoil it for you, but this breeding center was way bigger, had many more turtles, and was way more impressive than the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz.  Sorry, Charlie, but that’s the truth!

After retracing our steps through the trail, we decided to hit the beach in front of our hotel:beach6 beach7Day 3: Today’s itinerary called for a hike up Sierra Negra Volcano. You know, prior to this day, I was complaining to Chad that I did not think we were getting enough exercise on this trip; and then the volcano day arrived, and I shut up. For the rest of the trip.

Okay, so things you should know about this activity if you are going to do it (that I wish I had known!): 1) it’s TEN MILES round-trip (uphill half the way), and that is for the easy route (after about two hours of hiking you have to choose if you are going higher for a view or lower to a crater; oddly enough, the higher route is the easier one); 2) it’s cloudy; it’s sunny, it’s windy, it’s rocky; dress accordingly; 3) there are no bathrooms, so bring your own TP for the nature toilet. The views are incredible, and it’s worth the effort, but you need to wear the right shoes.  As in, NOT sneakers.  Wear thick socks and a good hiking shoe because little lava rocks will be in your shoes all day. If you do not heed this advice, then, at the end, you will have lovely, bloody blisters (like I did!).
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volcano volcano2 volcano29Do not be deceived by the start of this trail.  You hike on a road like this for about two hours.  Not so bad, right?  Looks kind of flat. See how our guide is dressed? I was like, that’s a little over-kill.  Then, about half way through, I understood.  You are on the equator. You need a hat for this. And about a ton of sunscreen (like all over your face and legs; any exposed part really). And SPF lip balm. Or like a face mask, really.volcano4Plus there are pretty flowers along the way that grow wildly: volcano3And fresh guava that you can eat:volcano11After about two hours, you are rewarded with this view.  But, this is about half way. You still have to walk around the rim. volcano5 volcano6 volcano7 volcano8 volcano9 volcano10Rim walking:

volcano14This was a good time to take a little reflection break:  Stunning views with almost no other hikers, it was so quiet and peaceful. volcano16Plus, about a million of these are in my shoes: volcano12You start to worry when you see the bones because at this point, you feel like you may die, too. volcano13But, as the sign reminds you, you still got more climbing to do: volcano19 volcano18 volcano17 volcanoe23See the faint green back there. Well, that is where we got our first view up top after two stinking hours of climbing.  Look at us now! volcano20 volcano21 volcano22 volcano24 volcano27volcano26At long last, we made it to the top of the easier route.  This is where Internet comes from!! Just kidding.  Kind of.  These are GPS systems and seismographs. volcano28 volcano30Okay, time to trek back down!

You would think that after an activity like this, we’d take the rest of the day off; but you would be wrong. This was our last day on the island, and this is an Anastasia vacation, so no rest. We can rest when we are dead.  We had a snorkel spot to hit!

Concha de Perla is a great little snorkel spot that you can do on your own, and it is free to visit.  This means that it is also a little more crowded.  If you go early in the morning or later in the afternoon, there are less people.  Some say the snorkeling is better in the morning.  You can see rays, turtles, lots of fish, crabs, iguanas, star fish, and sea lions here.

Remember John Travolta from above? Well he and his wife, Carmen (you won’t miss her, trust me, her eye shadow job is something else.  Drag queens could get tips from her!), own a dive and tour shop called Rosedelco.  It is located right on the road heading towards the port, so we stopped in and rented wet suits and snorkel gear.

Concha de Perla is located in the Port of Villamil, where all of your day excursions have taken place. After entering the port, you will see a juice stand on your left.  Just past the juice stand is the entrance for Concha de Perla, which can be reached via a wooden pathway.portconcha concha11

En route, we encountered a sea lion road block.  We thought we would just jump over them, but they were not pleased with that.  They woke up and started barking and showing teeth. Who knew that they were so testy! Ultimately, a park ranger had to come wake them and get them to move off the walkway and onto the sand to continue their siesta! concha2 concha10At the end of  the pathway, you will reach a wooden landing that has benches on the left, and wooden poles to hang your stuff on either side.  There are two staircases that lead down into the (cold!) water. This is what the lagoon looks like: concha6 concha4 concha3You aren’t supposed to go past the rock in the middle. While we were visiting, one of those lazy sea lions decided he was hungry.  He came waddling up the walk to the platform, made his way down the stairs, and shot like a bullet through the water looking for fish! concha7 concha8This was a great way to spend our last day on Isabela, and I am so glad we didn’t miss this place. Unfortunately for us, all good things must come to an end; but, we were excited, because up next was Santa Cruz Island! Isabela is a special island in the Galapagos not to be missed – truly a nature lover’s paradise; and whether you are doing a cruise or a land-based itinerary, I HIGHLY recommend that you make a point of staying a couple of days here.

 

 

 

Getting to the Galapagos: The Logistics

Tortuga BaySo, you want to go to the Galapagos Islands. Good choice! It is a literal paradise. But, if you have done any research at all, you may have already figured out that getting to this slice of paradise is not as easy as just jumping on a plane and going.  Getting to the Galapagos Islands is a process.

I truly believe that hiring a travel agent (one who specializes in the Galapagos Islands), especially for first timers, is worth the investment. You will see why in a minute. Is it the more pricey option? Yes; but it is also the option that is likely to maximize your trip and experience there.  We used a travel agent, and we were glad we did.  We met many people who had not, and most of them wished they had just to navigate the sheer logistics alone! Also, by using the expertise of a travel agent, we were able to cover a lot of the land-based options in the Galapagos, whereas our counterparts (the non-agent people) were not.

Land or Sea

The first choice you have to make is whether you want to do a land-based itinerary or a cruise.  You could combine these options, but you would likely be cutting time from one or the other (unless you have unlimited time and money; then, by all means, do both!). I am not a cruise person.  I don’t like them.  I don’t like being on a boat with all the people.  I don’t like the scheduled activities (and in the Galapagos the scheduling is strict!).  I like to do the things that interest us on our schedule, so for me this was a no-brainer.  Sort of. We chose a 9-day land-based itinerary.

There are some islands that you can only do by cruise (i.e., you cannot day-trip here on land-based itineraries).  These islands are Pinta, Marchena, Genovesa/Tower*, Espanola*, Santiago, Rabida, Santa Maria/Floreana*, and Fernandina*.  The ones that have the asterisk next to them are the ones Chad and I would like to visit on a return trip, which will have to be done by cruise. That’s right; I am going to break my own rule and cruise just so we can go to these islands. The remainder of the islands can be reached with a land-based itinerary. With the exception of a few animals, like red-footed boobies, the albatross, the flightless comorant, and the fur seal for example, you will get to see most of the BIG 15 of the Galapagos from a land-based itinerary.

Cruising

Since we did the land-based itinerary, I will go into more details on the logistics of that below.  If you are considering a cruise, here are some additional considerations.  First, the boats are small.  These are not the major cruise ships you are used to because the Galapagos National Park highly regulates the boats.  It limits the boats to 100 passengers, which can only take 20 people per group on land-based day tours.  At the time of this post, Silversea Cruises runs the largest cruise at 100 people with a hefty price tag. Celebrity runs the second largest cruise at 98 people.  Lindbald Expeditions runs the National Geographic tours and has two boats: a 48-passenger and a 96-passenger. Metropolitan Touring operates three boats: the 40-passenger, Isabella II, the 48-passenger La Pinta, and the 90-passenger Santa Cruz. After that, you have a choice of smaller privately owned boats (like the Nemo sail boats) or catamarans that have 10 to 20 passengers, or you can charter a boat. From all accounts, there is a huge difference between the amenities on the luxury vs. economy boats (and the price reflects that), and the accommodations are smaller.  Also, the higher-end the cruise, the better the guides.

Second, regardless of the cruise you choose and because of the tight regulations, you spend a considerable amount of time on the boat. The Galapagos National Park has pre-approved routes, and a boat cannot visit the same site twice (except for the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz Island).  So, you will likely have to choose from the northern islands, the southern islands, or the inner islands. The cruises begin and end on either Baltra or San Cristobal as these are the only two islands with airports.

Third, once on board, the daily itineraries are highly structured.  This is NOT freestyle cruising.  Like the land-based day-tours, the cruise tour options include a land portion (hiking, island visit, etc.) and a water portion (usually snorkeling from a zodiac as diving is not permitted from all boats). Also, the Galapagos National Park has a “sunrise to sunset” rule, so all activities are done during the day and all navigation at night.

Land-Based

For starters, all visitors to the Galapagos (cruisers included) will enter through Baltra Island or San Cristobal.  The most common and probably the easiest from a logistical standpoint is Baltra Island. You cannot stay, and indeed nobody (other than a limited number of military personnel) lives, on Baltra.  From there you will go to one of the three main islands where tourists stay: Isabela Island, Santa Cruz Island, or San Cristobal Island.

Santa Cruz is certainly the largest and most populated island. To get there, you take a short ferry (5-10 minutes) from Baltra to Santa Cruz island in calm waters.  The cost of the ferry is $1.00 USD per person per way for the government-owned ferry or $2.oo USD per person per way for the private-owned ferry. To catch the ferry, you must first board an airline bus from the airport that is headed for Itabaca Canal (NOT for Baltra dock).  The bus takes about 10 minutes.  Once you get to the port, you put your bags on top of the ferry and you go inside the ferry.ferry ferry2Once on Santa Cruz, and, in addition to exploring this island (which, honestly, doesn’t have much wildlife other than marine iguanas, sea turtles at Tortuga Bay, and the land tortoises at the Charles Darwin Research Station), you can take day-trips to Santa Fe, North Seymour Island, Bartolome, and South Plaza Island. All of these excursions offer great snorkeling and opportunities to see other animals on the islands, especially North Seymour Island.

To get to Isabela or San Cristobal, you can either take a ferry or take a regional flight on a small propeller plane.  To take the ferry, you must first take the ferry to Santa Cruz as described above, and then take another ferry from there. This second ferry is more of a speedboat than a ferry.  You can only take the ferry from Santa Cruz to Isabela and back or from Santa Cruz to San Cristobal and back.  There are no ferries from Isabela to San Cristobal and vice versa so you must route through Santa Cruz to travel between Isabel and San Cristobal.  The ferries take about 2-3 hours depending on how fast the speedboat is, and, in rough waters (which is common in the Galapagos), 4 hours. Prices vary between $25-$35 USD per person one way with no round trip discount.

You must arrive 30 minutes prior to departure to have your bags inspected by the Galapagos Inspection and Quarantine System (“SICGAL”).  If you are coming straight from the airport, your bags should already be tagged and this won’t be necessary as long as you do not remove the tag (more on this below).  Nonetheless, you should arrive early because if you have to go through inspection, you can expect crowds.  Also, you should pre-buy your ferry tickets as the boats tend to fill up and then your will need to wait until the next day to catch the ferry. Below is the scheudle:

From  To   Departure Time Arrival Time 
 Santa Cruz  San Cristobal  7:00 / 07:00 AM  9:15 / 09:15 AM
 Santa Cruz  San Cristobal  2:00 / 14:00 PM  4:30 / 16:30 PM
 Santa Cruz  Isabela  7:00 / 07:00 AM  9:30 / 09:30 AM
 Santa Cruz  Isabela  2:00 / 14:00 PM 4:15-30 / 16:15-30 PM
 Isabela  Santa Cruz  6:00 / 06:00 AM  8:00 / 08:00 AM
 Isabela  Santa Cruz  3:00 / 15:00 PM  5:15 / 17:15 PM
 San Cristobal  Santa Cruz  7:00 / 07:00 AM  9:30 / 09:30 AM
 San Cristobal  Santa Cruz  3:00 / 15:00 PM  5:30 / 17:30 PM

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If this seems like a lot of hassle (and, honestly, it is), there is another option, which is the one we chose! The alternative is an inter-island flight. Emetebe operates inter-island flights in small propeller planes.  The planes have a baggage weight limit of 25 lbs per person (oddly, they do not weigh the passengers) and can transport 8 passengers and a pilot. The way we did it is that, from Quito, we each packed a 25 lb carry on bag (in anticipation of this restriction) that had all the items we would need for the three days we were going to spend on Isabela Island, the first island we were going to be visiting.  When we arrived in Baltra, an agent was waiting for us to take our international luggage and transport it to the hotel that we would eventually be staying at in Santa Cruz when we returned three days later.  This agent helped us check into the regional flight, and we were off! We met up with the agent and our luggage when we returned. The flight is only 30 minutes and is very scenic! The flight costs about $150 USD per person per way. This is yet another reason why it pays to have an agent arrange your trip for you! Once we arrived in Isabela, another agent met us there and took us to our hotel.  This is important because this is not a traditional airport.  It is a landing strip with an open structure (see below).  There are no taxis waiting out front, so arrange a car before you get there, especially if you arrive on Sunday!isabela airport ISABELA AIRPORT 2 ISABELA 3By the way, when you get to Isabela, you must pay $10.00 USD per person IN CASH in order to enter the island.

When we returned to Santa Cruz, another agent was waiting to pick us up from the airport, rode the bus with us, took care of the ferry business, and got us to our hotel. We did have to wait 10 minutes at the airport for him, but that was okay with us because we did that in the catered VIP lounge!santa cruz airport VIP2 VIP VIP3But, I digress.  If you choose the flight option, here is what you have in store:plane plane6 plane2 plane3 plan4 plane5Try to sit in the first row for the best view!

Arrival in the Galapagos

So, now that you have all the information you need to decide whether you are going on a land-based tour or on a cruise, you actually have to get to the Galapagos, and if you thought that was easy, think again.  Allow me to open your world to a whole new set of logistics!

First, as we discussed above, you can enter the Galapagos from Baltra or San Cristobal.  To do that you must fly to one of those places from either Quito or Guayaquil on either LATAM or TAME airlines.  In my opinion, if you can get a direct flight from Quito to Baltra, take it.  Otherwise, there is a flight that goes from Quito to Guayaquil to Baltra.  When you land in Guayaquil, the Galapagos passengers stay on board for 30-40 minutes while the Guayaquil passengers deplane, and the new passengers come on board.  The direct flight is about 2 hours.  If you have to do the Guayaquil stopover, plan on 3 to 3.5 hours.

But, let’s not get ahead of ourselves.  There is a whole process that needs to be done before you even board the flight in Quito or Guayaquil.  Since we departed from Quito, I’ll give you the Quito rundown. Let me sum it up for you:  Get to the airport early.

As soon as you enter the domestic terminal in Quito, go all the way to the right.  You will see this:PARK FEE 2 GALAPAGOS AREA PARK FEEThis is your first stop.  You will need your passport, and you need to pay $20 USD per person IN CASH to buy a mandatory Galapagos Transit Card (IMPORTANT NOTE: When you arrive at your initial point of entry into the Galapagos Islands – again, for us, this was Baltra – you MUST ALSO PAY $100 USD IN CASH to purchase your mandatory Galapagos Islands license: a/k/a the Galapagos National Park Fee). They will issue you a paper that looks like a customs form. DO NOT LOSE IT. You will need to show it upon arrival and turn it in when you leave.

Up next, you must scan all of your luggage. At this point, airport personnel will place a plastic zip tie onto your luggage, such that it cannot be opened until it passes canine inspection in the Galapagos. Once you pay the $20 and collect your entrance ticket, you go here to get scanned and tagged:SCREENINGTAGAny unprocessed food or nuts will be confiscated. Only after you passed through here may you approach the counter to check in to your Galapagos flight.  If you hire a travel agent, there is a local agent that takes you to the airport and does ALL of this for you while you comfortably sit and wait.signOnce you get to the Galapagos, the real fun begins.  First, you enter the airport and must pass through their customs.  You will need your passport and the form mentioned previously (this is also where you will pay the aforementioned $100 USD Galapagos National Park Fee).  You will also get a neat Galapagos passport stamp! Then they will scan your bags … again!ISLAND SCREENINGpassport stampAfter this, you move to the luggage collection area.  There is a long yellow line.  You are not to cross this line and collect your bag until you are told to. Why?  Well, your luggage gets checked again.  By a dog; a fruit and vegetable contraband sniffing dog. So, all the luggage comes out and is lined up on belts.  The dog comes around and sniffs each and every bag.  If your bag passes the sniff test, then the plastic zip tie is cut off. Once all bags have been sniffed and approved, they allow you to collect your bag in what turns our to be a chaotic free-f0r-all!LUGGAGE CONTRABAND DOG LUGGAGE2 LUGGGAGE 3 LUGGAGE4 After you collect your bag, you either check in for your next flight if you are flying to Isabela or San Cristobal or you go out to catch the bus that will take you to Santa Cruz for your stay there or for your next ferry ride to Isabela or San Cristobal.

Whew!  As you can now see, the logistics in the Galapagos can be challenging.  If you wish to do this on your own, you probably will save a little money, but you will also spend a lot of time figuring things out and dealing with these logistics, which may cost you your sanity and precious vacation time!  Also, if you run into a problems along the way, you will be left with no support, especially for the locally booked activities and tours.

Packing

So, one last thing before you go: a packing list.  You will thank me for this later because you really need to pack as if you are going to an island and as if you were hiking.

First, try packing as light as possible.  The water is cold in the Galapagos, but you can rent wet suits for $10, fins and a snorkel mask for $5 each, and life vests for $5 each.  Also, all the tours will provide these and towels, so skip packing these if you can. If you have a prescription mask, then bring that.

During The Day

Like I explained above, most tours have a land and a water portion, so each day you need to be prepared for both.  You will know which you are doing first ahead of time, and some of the day-boats have changing facilities if needed.  You are going to need a day bag that can hold your change of clothes and shoes, and bring some large Ziploc bags or a dry bag as well.

For the water:

Depending on how long you are there, I would probably bring 4 bathing suits. You will be in the water daily, so they need time to dry.  Also, bring water shoes.  You sometimes have to do a wet landing in knee-deep water, and there are rocks.  Also, you are literally on the equator, the sun is EXTREMELY strong here. So, please be sure to bring a couple of bottles of 100 SPF sunblock (Yes – that is a real thing) and apply often – like, very often.  Trust me, you’ll be glad you did! Also, bring a rash guard shirt, a couple of lightweight long-sleeved shirts, and a hat.  Bring the hat. You will SO thank me for this later!  A light windbreaker or scarf for the boat is not a bad idea because it is windy. Finally, I would bring a couple cover-ups for ladies and flip flops. Bring SPF chap stick or lip care and sunglasses. Many of the guides wear a scarf that covers their face, and honestly, I now understand why.

For the land:

I wore gym clothes every day: sports bras, workout tops, and workout pants.  I always had a lightweight long sleeve top, and I wished for a hat.  Bring the hat. You can do shorts and t-shirts, too. Do not wear jeans during the day.  You need lightweight, comfortable clothing.  You will be transferring on and off boats and zodiacs, so keep that in mind. Bring good, thick hiking socks (ESPECIALLY if you are hiking Sierra Negra volcano) and comfortable sneakers or hiking shoes.  Also, bring bug spray, and don’t forget your undergarments if you are changing during the day.

Miscellaneous 

Even at the resorts, the Galapagos Islands are very casual, so you can get away with light dresses or jeans or shorts and t-shirts/tops for dinner.  Bring aloe and after sun care products. Also, the waters can be very rough.  Even if you do not get sea sick, I guarantee you that you will feel a little queasy at least once. Bring Dramamine. Bring a GoPro or underwater camera with all the charging and waterproofing supplies (Ecuador uses the US current so no need to bring converters and adapters).  Bring a serious camera with lenses and your batteries and memory cards for the land portion.  The photo ops are unreal!

Other than that, bring photocopies of all your relevant documents, chargers, some protein bars, your prescription meds, your over the counter meds (Advil, antacids, anti-diarrhea, etc.), your toiletries (including hand-sanitizer), your PJs, a lightweight rain jacket or poncho, a light sweater or jacket, binoculars, and a good book or your kindle!

Money

Also, bring cash.  Ecuador uses the US Dollar, and while you can use credit cards at the hotels and most restaurants, you will need cash for tips and some restaurants or shops (and the $120/person Galapagos Park entry fees that I mentioned previously).  It is better to have and not need than to need and not have, and ATMs are not as readily available.  You should give a couple of bucks to baggage porters and cab/water-taxi drivers.  The norm is to tip 10% at restaurants. After your tours, you will need to tip the guides, and, if you were on a boat, the crew.  Typically, $10 per couple for a half day tour and $20 per couple for a full day tour for the guides are acceptable. Don’t forget the crew: about $15-$20 should be plenty.

Okay, you are all set! I hope this post helped you in your trip planning.  I know it is a lot to digest, so if you need help or you have questions, send me an email or comment below. Otherwise, bon voyage!

 

Colombia For The Weekend: An Itinerary for Cartagena

pink theaterThe colorful concrete rainbow that is the historic district in Cartagena, Colombia is certainly captivating, especially for photographers and architecture lovers alike. Every color on the spectrum can be found painted onto the colonial-styled buildings. Cartagena is eye candy for days. But how did the city get so colorful?  Well, as the story goes, Cartagena originally had a law that required all buildings to be white. One day, a very entrepreneurial eye doctor (one who happened to own a paint company) convinced the government that the strong beams of the sun’s rays reflecting off of the city’s all white buildings was ruining its citizens’ eyesight. The city fathers agreed, the law was changed, and the doctor retired from medicine to preside over his booming paint business! Okay, I may be taking some editorial liberties on the retirement part, but I imagine that’s what happened. Regardless, thanks to this enterprising ophthalmologist, we now have a kaleidoscope of colors to enjoy in Cartagena!

Cartagena is the perfect long weekend city. It has a cool historic center with narrow mazes of colorful streets to explore, excellent dining (both street and fine), beaches with constant warm weather, and some off the beaten path sites to explore.  Also, it is a relatively short and cheap flight away from the east coast.  For example, from Fort Lauderdale, it’s cheaper and closer to fly to Cartagena than it is to fly to New York on Jet Blue. So, without further ado, here is your perfect three-day itinerary!

Day 1:  Arrive and Hit the Ground Running

We took an 11:30 a.m. flight from Fort Lauderdale and got into Cartagena by 1:30 p.m. local time.  The time difference is just an hour (Cartagena is an hour behind South Florida), so there is big no time difference or jet lag excuse to be had.  Cartagena’s airport is small and not too many flights arrive at once, so you clear customs fairly quickly. We arranged for our hotel to pick us up from the airport – which, by the way, is very close to the historic center – but Cartagena has Uber, so go with that if you have not pre-arranged a transfer. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT use the taxis. From what I gathered from other American travelers with whom we compared notes, they are scam artists that rip off tourists, including driving around and not letting you out until you pay the price they want, and, according to one traveler, robbing you.  So, just stay away from cabs altogether.  Once you get into the city, you can literally walk everywhere, and it is usually faster to walk than drive, anyway.  Trust me on this.  We tested it several times with Uber.

We chose to stay in a small five-room guest house called Casa Santa Ana, located outside of (but only a 10 minute walk to) the historic walled city, in the urban gentrified area of Getsemani. Getsemani is has a very local vibe with not as many tourists. It is Cartagena’s up and coming restaurant and nightlife spot, and it is adorned with beautiful street art murals. Also, if you are a backpacker, it’s a hostel hot spot!Santa Ana santa ana frontTo get here, you stay to the left of this church and go half way down the first street on your left hand side.  The hotel will be on your right. By the way, this church is the Getsemani central meeting spot.  At night, locals and some tourists alike join the sea of street vendors selling food from carts and street performers. In Cartagena, music is always playing.  Every day and all day long.Getsemani churchSanta ana streetThe staff here is super friendly and very helpful. Our room was ready right away.  It was a nice-sized room with a comfortable queen size bed. It had an air-conditioner unit and 3 fans, two in the room and one in the bathroom.  This may seem like overkill, but it’s not. Cartagena is HOT AND HUMID!  Maybe one of the hottest places I’ve been, and I am a South Florida girl! It’s hotter than “winter” in Thailand and Cambodia. Plus, it is so close to the equator that it feels hotter. It’s hot during the day and at night.

Here are some other fun facts about Cartagena that I wish I had known before I went: There are mosquitoes, like a lot of them; so step off the plane with repellent in hand and start applying. Another fun fact about Cartagena is that you can never trust the weather forecast.  For example, our forecast said 80% chance of rain everyday, but it only rained one day. Also, unlike what you may have experienced in other countries, including other South American countries, most locals do not speak English, so you will need a basic working knowledge of Spanish.

Anyway, back to the hotel.  They had a delicious made to order breakfast every morning with both traditional Colombian and American-style choices, including omelettes, fresh fruit, and a different fresh squeezed juice every day.  There is also a small roof-top infinity pool with loungers that is almost always empty. The hotel has free bikes to use, strong Wi-Fi, and they can book tours and activities for you (more on that later).breakfast lobby pool chad poolAfter checking in and dropping our bags, we made a bee-line into the walled city to meet our guide for our street food tour! This was sort of a last minute tour that we scheduled to fill the afternoon, but it ended up being one of the best because we got to try a lot of local street food from trusted vendors, learn some interesting things about the city, and see some beautiful street art. Most of the street food in Colombia is fried, so it is relatively safe to eat, but a good rule of thumb is to only eat from vendors that are actually cooking the food in front of you as opposed to vendors who are selling  pre-made food.

In search of tamarind popsicles:street food tourLocal made cheese and guava on the go:cheese fruit vendor vendor 2The street artists here are very talented.  If you have ever been to Wynwood in Miami, this is similar, but not quite as big as Wynwood. It does, however, have a more interesting story.turtle street art1 street art 5 street art 4 street art 3 snailladyAlong the way, I kept seeing small birds in cages hanging from trees. Our guide explained that these were peoples’ pets that they brought with them to work and hung in the trees through the work day. birdHe also said to not be surprised if we saw locals “walking” their birds in the cages in the early mornings or evenings. I thought he was joking, and then one morning, we saw this:bird walkingHere is another fun fact we learned on this tour — all over the city you will see men selling coffee, candy and cigarettes:dealerAnd, while I certainly do not condone or recommend such things, if you are looking for a certain kind of “candy,” apparently, many of them also sell drugs. That’s right, drugs! According to our guide, they are all cartel-connected.  Another fun fact, prostitution is legal in Colombia! I was starting to realize why Cartagena was such a popular bachelor party destination: beaches, casinos, drugs, and prostitutes! Sounds like a party! If you are interested in the back story on how our little drug-peddling friends ended up in Cartagena, like so many of the world’s woes, you can blame Hollywood! When filming the movie The Mission, the filmmakers realized there were not enough “native looking” Colombians around Cartagena; so, they imported over 500 of them to use as extras from the more remote interior regions of Colombia. Once they got there, these country natives decided that they liked the big city, wanted to stay, and needed something to do in order to make money.  Yada, yada, yada, Colombia’s best known commodities (coffee and cocaine) are now readily available on the streets of Cartagena!

After a quick nap, which in hindsight should’ve been spent catching the sunset at Cafe Del Mar in the historic center, we were ready for an authentic Colombian dinner.ceviche shrimp seafood pie beerHad we caught the sunset, it would’ve looked something like this photo I found on the wonderful wide web: sunset

Day 2: City Tour – Old and New

Today was set aside for really exploring both the old and new city of Cartagena, and for that, we enlisted the help (and air conditioned vehicle) of Claudia Vidal. We started our day with a visit to La Popa hill where we were able to see a fantastic view of the entire city.city viewWe also visited the Monastery and Chapel of Our Lady of the Candle.mon3monestary alterOur next stop was to the San Felipe de Barajas Fort.fort1 fort2At the fort, we met this colorful lady:fort lady1By the way, these lady vendors in colorful dresses are everywhere.  They are happy to pose for a picture…for a price! Here are some other colorful ladies you may run into in Cartagena, but these pictures are not mine. I just love them, so I am sharing.lady6 lady5 lady4 lady3 lady 7From the fort, we our way to the old city, where we took a leisurely stroll around the old walled city admiring all the old colonial architecture and basking in the beautiful color of the buildings.city view2 clock2 clockb;fg3 blag19 bld10 bldg 20 bldg bldg4 bldg2 bldg5 bench bldg12 bldg13 bldg14 bldg16 bldg17 bldg18localburrobldg8 bldg6Inside the walled city, we visited the Sanctuary of Saint Peter Claver.chrch door church2 churchRight around the corner from the church is a small cigar shop that Bill Clinton frequented when he visited the city:cigarAfter our tour, we stopped for lunch at the delicious (and beautiful) Alma Restaurant.alma alma5 alma2alma4This is where I discovered the delight of my life: Coconut Lemonade.  After this encounter, I stopped for one everywhere we went, and, after taste testing a dozen or so, I can confirm that Alma makes it best.  I think it’s the added touch of coconut shavings that makes it. Trust me, after a long hot day, this is like a cold, sweet oasis in your mouth! coco drinkAlma is also where I got a major case of bathroom envy: alam3And, in case you were wondering, Cartagena is just as beautiful at night as she is during the day:night night2And, like I said before, it is hot and humid in Cartagena, even at night, so if you see a popsicle shop (and you will because they are all over), pop in and treat yourself!popsDay 3: Beach and Off the Beaten Path

Okay, so when we were planning this trip, we knew we wanted to take a day trip outside of the city.  The most popular is to visit one of the island beaches since the beaches in Cartagena aren’t that great.  You have a couple of options if you want to go this route.  The first (and probably most popular) is to visit Playa Blanca on Isla Baru, which is what we did.

You have two options for this visit.  The most economical is to take a group boat tour.  When I was researching this, it sounded terrible, i.e., a bunch of tourists packed onto a boat and herded onto an island.  When we got there, the reality was more terrible than it sounded.  The “boat” was a barely sea-worthy dinghy packed to the gills with tourists.  I am not sure how the stupid boat was still floating.  Then they wet landed onto the beach for a couple of hours.  By “wet landed” I mean that they basically had you jump off the boat, and then, when it was time to load back in, they had a guy there hoisting you up by the leg and basically throwing you into the boat.  It was a nightmare to watch, which is why I was happy that we chose the second option, which was to hire a private driver to take us there by car. This is a fairly new option thanks to the recent construction of a bridge. The ride was about an hour, and we arranged to stop at the new national  aviary, which ended up being the highlight of the day!

If you choose this options, I strongly recommend that you hire a driver in a private car that goes there frequently and knows the ropes rather than renting a car and driving yourself or taking a cab because, believe me, there are no cabs waiting to bring you back.  I would highly recommend our driver, Camilo, whom we met through Claudia.  He runs a customized tourism service called Aldaba, which offers private tours, transfers, can arrange private boat tours, and has a full range of concierge services.  He speaks English very well, and he used to be a personal butler and concierge to VIP guests at one of Cartagena’s best hotels, so he has a lot of connections and can get things done. He also knows what is and is not legit, which is very important in Cartagena. Allow me to explain.

When using Nitric Oxide products this stimulates a huge release of Growth Hormone into the system around training times which has female viagra online shown in numerous studies to vastly improve performance and body composition. cialis no prescription mastercard This preparation also helps in strengthening male genital organ and male reproductive system. Kamagra safety best prices cialis information Do not take KAMAGRA if you take nitrates, regularly recommended for midsection torment, as this may cause a sudden, risky drop in pulse. Keep away from reach of children. levitra ordering (Auvitra) is a pill used to treat erectile dysfunction in men.The main cause or the reason for erectile dysfunction is Kamagra Jelly. During our visit, there was a summit of South American leaders in Cartagena (at which Colombia’s president was in attendance as well as dignitaries from neighboring countries), so security was heightened.  As a result, we had to pass six checkpoints along the way to Playa Blanca, but only half of them were legitimate.  The other half were set up by roadside scammers looking for money, and Camilo warned us about this in advance.

At each of the legitimate stops, there were uniformed and armed officers and military personnel ordering you out of the car.  They checked the entire car (including the trunk, glove compartment, and floor boards) and your personal belongings before allowing you to pass. The fake stops were set up the same way, except this time it was just random guys with machetes and a stop sign pulling over cars to “check” them, but really making you pay to proceed.  Camilo was wise to their game so while others (including cabs) were stopping, Camilo just kept driving even while they were banging on the car windows. When we got to the parking lot of Playa Blanca, we again encountered a gang of locals banging on the car, but Camilo quickly shut them down and accompanied us all the way to the beach, took us to the best restaurant on the beach for lunch, and waited on the beach until we were ready to leave. We felt safe the entire time.

So, back to our day-trip. As I mentioned, we arranged to visit the new aviary, Aviario Nacional Colombia. We were a little skeptical about what we were going to find, but I am so glad we went.  It was raining when we arrived, but we were in swimsuits, so we didn’t care.  We basically had the entire aviary to ourselves. It was pretty cheap to enter at $24 USD for two people.

When you walk in you see a large parrot exhibit and a peacock pavilion, and you start to wonder if you’re at a low rate zoo, but then you take a short path up and enter two double doors, and that is when the real surprise begins.  First, the aviary is a lot larger than it seems, and you probably need a good two hours to get through it at a leisurely pace. Second, almost all of the birds are free roaming, so you get very up close and personal with them and are bound to find random peacocks all over the aviary.  Third, the photo opportunities are fantastic, and, finally, there are a TON of mosquitoes so DEET it up and then reapply! birds 16 birds 13birds 15 birds 14 birds 11 birds 12 birds5 bird8 birds 18 birds 17 bird1 birds6 birds7 birds3On our way out, we were greeted by some roadside cows!cow

Literally down the road, is the entrance to the road that takes you to Playa Blanca.  There are some things that you should know about Playa Blanca before you go.  First, it is overrun with tourists.  Like ridiculously packed. But, the tourists seem to stay to the left of the beach (as you face the ocean), because the boats “dock” there, most of the restaurants are there, and the cabanas are there, too. Also, there are all kinds of vendors walking up and down the beach harassing you to buy jewelry, buy oysters, buy shells, buys drinks, and get a massage.  Just so you get an idea, these photos were taken once we had walked about 10 minutes to the right (as you face the ocean) from the crowds.  Look how many people are packed onto this beach, and this is from a distance!  Also, notice the “boats” that brought them there.baru 10 baru9If you want to avoid this mess, you need to walk in the opposite direction for about 15 minutes towards the beach-front hostels.  There is literally almost nobody on the beach here, and, in my opinion, this is the only enjoyable way to visit this beach.baru7 baru6 baru5 baru4 baru8 baru3 baru2 baruIn hindsight, I would probably skip this beach altogether and opt for a private boat to the Rosario Islands, not a public multi-island stop that vendors will try to sell you on the streets of Colombia. I researched this option before leaving and opted against it because I was being quoted $2,000.00 USD for private boat rental by some companies. After speaking to Camilo, he said he could arrange a tour for us on a private boat for $700.00 USD.  Our hotel offered the best deal for a private boat tour on a pretty nice 28-foot boat for $400.00 USD for the day.

If the beach or aviary isn’t your thing, but you still want to do a day trip from Cartagena, consider visiting San Basilio de Palenque, a UNESCO recognized village inhabited by the first freed slaves that retains many of its old traditions, Volcan del Totumo, a mud volcano that you can dive into and get a massage, kayak/canoe through Portonaito mangroves, or visit Montes De Maria, Parque Nacional Tayrona, or Sierra Nevada De Santa Marta.

After returning to the city, we ate dinner at the best restaurant we visited during our four days in Cartagena: Carmen.  It was delicious, and I highly recommend it. It was a perfect ending to our last night in Cartagena! (Yes, it was so hot that Chad broke down and ordered this lady drink: the house special Sangria!)carmen2 carmen

Know Before You Go

Other than the pearls of wisdom that I have sprinkled throughout this post, here is some more information that you may find useful for your trip to Cartagena.  First, credit cards are widely accepted so you don’t need that much local currency.  We changed $50 American dollars, and that was more than enough for smaller expenses, like drinks, popsicles and for the street vendors. If you are going to change money, don’t do it at the airport; do it inside the old city. When you walk in, head towards the right.  There is a change place on the corner of the street.  Skip that and head down the street on the right. All along this street on the right-hand side are a bunch of change stations.  The further down you go, the better the rate.

Second, other than the food vendors, there are a lot of street vendors trying to sell you hats, jewelry, and art. They are very persistent, so ignore them while they walk with you.  At night, there are scores of performers trying to sing you songs or rap to you.  Just keep walking, and tell them no. They eventually tire of you.  That being said, we never felt unsafe in Cartagena. Also, please don’t support the horse drawn carriage vendors. I feel terrible for the poor horses who all look miserable, loaded up in the heat with more passengers than should be allowed.

Finally, the American dollar is strong in relation to the Colombian Peso, so your dollar goes far in Cartagena. Even the fanciest of meals is fairly reasonably priced by American standards.  For example, we ate at two of the Cartagena’s best restaurants, and both times the bill was under $100 American dollars for both of us, including drinks. In fact, this entire trip with flights, hotels, food, and tours cost us just under $2,000!

I hope that this post has inspired you to take a long weekend and explore a different country on a different continent! I’d love to hear your feedback on this post.  Or, if you have been to Cartagena, your tips and suggestions for visiting, especially your insight on day-trips! Until next time, happy wandering!colombia

 

 

The Crown Jewel Of Peru: Machu Picchu

MP filterLast year, Lonely Planet published its Ultimate Travelist wherein it ranked the 500 best places to see in the world. Machu Picchu ranks third on their list, narrowly missing second place by just a handful of votes.  For the record, I had already started planning our Peru trip before I received my copy of the book, but I was pleased to see that Machu Picchu made the list (and was so highly ranked!).  It further supported my argument to Chad that I have my finger on the pulse of travel when he questions (some of) the destinations that I have on our (read, my) list.

Machu Picchu was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 and was added to the list of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.  It is the most recognizable icon of the Inca civilization and is the most visited site in Peru.  Interestingly, nobody truly knows what happened here, but most archaeologist believe that it was built as an estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti. While its existence was known locally, it remained unknown to the world until Hiram Bingham, an American historian from Yale University, “discovered” it in 1911, mistakenly believing that he had found Vilcabamba, or the Lost City of the Incas.  By now, I hope you’ve read my post on the Sacred Valley, and you know how to get here (via train) from Ollantaytambo or Cusco (to Aguas Calientes).

A note about the different trains that bring you into Aguas Calientes: The Expedition train is the lowest class train.  The cost is about $56.00 for one way departing from Ollantaytambo (depending on the schedule) and it includes a small snack and drink. The train we took is one step up from the Expedition.  It is called the Vistadome train.  It is the middle class train, and the most popular one.  The cost is about $80.00 one way from Ollantaytambo (depending on the schedule).  It has huge windows and includes a small meal and drink service. The most expensive train is the Hiram Bingham Orient Express, the luxury train.  A round trip ticket costs over $400.00 per person and includes on-board brunch and dinner with entertainment, bus transfers, entrance fee and a guided tour of the citadel, and afternoon tea at Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge. The trip from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes is about two hours and the return into Cusco is about four hours because the trains travel at a slower rate of speed.mphotel5When we arrived to Aguas Calientes, a representative from our hotel, the Inkaterra MachuPicchu Pueblo Hotel, met us at the train station to collect our bags and take them to the hotel so that we could immediately board the bus that would take us to the Machu Picchu citadel.  It appears that the two nice hotels, this one and the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge Machu Picchu, offer this service.

The Belmond Sanctuary Lodge is the only hotel that is actually at the citadel, as in right outside the gates.  It is very expensive to stay here, approximately $1,000.00 per night. The pros of staying here are obvious. The cons of staying here are that you are 25 minutes away from the town and all the restaurants, the market, and other local sites (the unofficial Machu Picchu museum, the butterfly park, etc.), and you have to hire a private car to go up and down the mountain.

If you are a regular reader of this blog, you know that we pre-bought both our bus tickets and our entrance tickets to Machu Picchu. However, if you are wondering how to buy tickets upon arrival, I’ve got you covered, but I STRONGLY recommend that you at least pre-buy your Machu Picchu tickets as they only allow 2,500 visitors into the site per day, and if you want to climb Huayna Picchu, it is imperative that you pre-buy tickets because only 400 people per day (divided into two groups) are allowed to make the climb, and the tickets sell out quickly. To purchase tickets on your own, you can call the Ministry of Culture’s call center at +51- 08 458 2030.  You can also buy tickets online here.  Otherwise, your hotel and/or travel agent can purchase the tickets for you. The Machu Picchu citadel is open daily from 6:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Tickets are personal, non-transferable, and valid for one calendar day only. Once purchased, the dates cannot be changed.

Upon exiting the train station, you will find yourself in the middle of a local market. Keep on the road directly in front of you.  You will have to weave through the local market to get to the bridge that takes you to the part of town where the Ministry of Culture’s ticket office can be found.  The market may look like a maze, but follow the crowds and the people that look like guides because they are all going to the same place since this is also the path you need to take to catch the bus that takes you up to Machu Picchu.
mptrain2After three to five minutes, you will reach this bridge which you will need to cross to buy citadel tickets, to buy bus tickets, and to catch the bus:MPbridgeThis is the view from the other side of the bridge:mpbridge2Once you cross over, keep on this narrow elevated street.  If you already have citadel and bus tickets and need to catch the bus, or have citadel tickets but need to buy bus tickets and catch the bus, then at the end of this gate you will make sharp left turn and continue to the street.mpbridgetoticketsIf you need to first buy citadel tickets, then you will stay straight on the path above until you see this corner with the sign directing you to the right to buy tickets to Machu Picchu.mpticketStay straight on the road until you see this building on your right hand side.  You can purchase your Machu Picchu tickets inside. At the time of this post, tickets cost about $40.00 per ticket for tourists for the citadel only.  If you want to climb Huayna Picchu, the cost of the ticket is approximately $48.00. For Huayna Picchu, there are two entry times, either from 7:00 a.m. to 8:00 a.m. or from 10:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m.  It takes about four hours to climb up to Huayna Picchu. Also, you must present your passport not only to purchase tickets (which must be paid in U.S. Dollars) but also to get into Machu Picchu.mptickets3If you’ve reached this city square, then you went too far (about a block too far) and you need to turn around and look for the building above on your left hand side. On the day this picture was taken, not only was it raining, but a local cultural celebration was taking place which is why you see a uniformed band.mptcketsOnce your tickets are purchased, back track to the elevated road from the picture above, but instead of going up that road, stay to the right to go down to street level.  If you took the sharp left turn above then you should already be at street level and you should see this ticket stand in front of you.  This is where you buy bus tickets. If you notice, it is right underneath the bridge that you just crossed.mpbusThe buses are located to the right of the ticket office as you face it from this vantage point or just behind the people who are purchasing tickets.  Note, buses returning from the citadel will line up facing this ticket office on the side of the street that these people are on.  Buses leaving to the citadel will line up on the side of the street that I took this picture from (or across the street from the ticket office) and will face away from the office. There is usually a line of people waiting to get on the bus. At the time of this post, the cost of a round trip bus ticket from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu is $24.00 per person, and must be paid in Peruvian Soles. The first bus leaves at 5:30 a.m. for the people who want to get in at 6:00 a.m. and see the sunrise. A lot of people have this on their bucket list, but don’t have your heart set on seeing the sunrise.  A lot of times, the sun hides behind the cloud forest, but the nice thing about being there early is that it is not as crowded as it is between 10:00 a.m. and noon! The last bus leaves the citadel at 5:30 p.m.
mpbus3The bus takes about 25 minutes to reach the citadel.  The road starts out flat for about 5 to 10 minutes and then begins to climb an unpaved, winding mountain road. If you are scared of heights, like Chad is, don’t sit by the window; but honestly, it’s not that bad because the mountain is densely vegetated and there are only a few places from where you realize how high up you are. Below is a photo I borrowed from the internet that shows you the road up. You can always walk up if you want to, and here is guide on how to do that.road to MPWhen you arrive, you climb up a short flight of stairs until you reach the platform where the information office, entrance, and cafes are located.mpinfocenter

mpmapThis shot was taken in the afternoon after we ate lunch, which is why you see no line (more on that below). When we arrived at around 10:00 a.m., there was a line to get in, but it wasn’t terrible. We waited about three minutes to get in. It is worth noting that Sundays are the busiest days because on Sundays, Peruvians get in free!mpentrance2

mpentranceThere are no restrooms or places to buy water or snacks once you pass through these gates (although there is a “charging station”, a couple of plugs and some benches really, where you can charge your phone and other electronics located under a covered walkway just past the entrance), so make sure to use the restroom and bring water and snacks in with you.  You can leave and return to the citadel three times per day with your ticket. The restrooms are located on the lower platform where the buses drop you off and cost 1 Sole to use.  There are no paper towels to dry your hands, just hand dryers, and bringing your own toilet paper is a good idea.  mprestroomDon’t worry, that’s not the line to get into the bathroom.  That is the line to get onto a bus and leave the citadel at noon, which is why you should stay and re-enter in the afternoon when the citadel is mostly empty!

As soon as you pass the entrance, the first thing you will want to do is get your passport stamped with the Machu Picchu stamp! There is a table located to the left of the entrance, and you can just stamp it yourself.  I also stamped our tickets!mpstamp

mpstamp2Then, get ready to feast your eyes on the first glimpse of Machu Picchu as you walk through the covered walkway!mp1stview

MP2This is certainly not the best view of the citadel.  It’s just the first view (but, it’s still pretty awesome if you are seeing it for the first time!).  If you want the best view, you need to do about 10 to 15 minutes worth of climbing. If you are unable to do that, no worries; you can use the walkway shown below to walk into the ruins.  There isn’t too much climbing (other than some stairs here and there) once you are in and walking through the ruins.  MP3

mp1srview2If you want the BEST view, here is what you need to do. As you walk  in and on your left hand side, you will see this small sign.  If you aren’t looking for it, you will miss it.

mpviewFollow the upward path that leads to the guardhouse, bridge, and sungate.  For those of you who want to hike up to the sungate or down to the bridge, you will need to go this way anyway.
mpview2The path is upward and has some stairs.  In the morning, you will be following a line of people.  In the afternoon, you will be pretty much alone. Stop and take some rest breaks if you need it. It is a moderate hike and it takes about 10 minutes to get to the vantage point. mpviewspotEventually, you will get to the guardhouse, which offers this view: MP5This picture was taken at the end of the guardhouse.MP teaser 2Guess what?  This still isn’t the best view. Most people will stop here and start clicking away.  If you walk past the guardhouse (which will be on your right), you will come to a landing, and this, my friends, is where you will find the money shot!mpemptyThis is the landing of which I speak and from where these pictures were taken: mpempty2

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mp16Take a moment and enjoy the view because it is truly amazing and you worked hard to get here!mp17Oh, and while you are here, don’t forget to whip out your freshly stamped passport and get some these shots! mppassport4

MPpassport3Now, there is one more level that you can climb up to which is just behind you and is really just a big step up.  I don’t think it offers a better view, but I took some pictures from here too. By the way, if you are thinking that the landing below is the perfect place to take one those jump in the air pictures, think again. Jumping in Machu Picchu is strictly prohibited, and that is probably a good policy, you know, for your own safety and to protect the ruins. There are people watching, and they will blow the whistle.mpmeChad and I planned to do the sungate after our two hour privately guided tour of the citadel was done (by the way, I recommend taking a guided tour otherwise, you don’t really understand what it is that you are seeing, and you may miss some of the best parts).  Specifically, we scheduled a guided tour of the citadel for as soon as we got there (our guide traveled with us from Ollantaytambo, but there are guides offering their services just outside the entrance too if you didn’t plan ahead), and then our plan was to exit for lunch, and then re-enter to do the sungate.

Since we are on the topic of lunch, let me tell you a little bit about your options. There aren’t many.  Two, in fact. You aren’t supposed to bring food into the citadel, and there are no trash cans inside. I mean, nobody is going to chase you down if you eat a protein bar, but if you lay out a blanket and have yourself a picnic, you may be asked to leave.  So, either you can eat at the buffet that the Sanctuary Lodge offers or there is a small snack bar.  If you go back to the picture of the bathrooms, the platform above is the snack bar. There is also a vending machine near the bathrooms.  The snack bar is the cheapest option.  It has pizza, sandwiches, pastries, beers, water, soft drinks, coffee, and limited seating. We did the buffet.  It was $80.00 for two people. The food was just okay.  There was a selection of salads, sides, fish, meat, chicken, and desserts. There was also Wi-Fi and clean, free (well I mean you paid $80.00, so maybe not that free) restrooms. Since I paid $80.00 for a mediocre lunch, I decided that I would also feed it to the dogs that hang out outside of the citadel.mpdogs2

mpdogsSo, remember that line for the buses that I showed you before? It appears that most people come in the morning and are out of there by noon to 1:00 p.m. I say, stay at the citadel, eat your lunch there and then re-enter the citadel in the afternoon because when you do, it will be almost empty. It is like you have all of Machu Picchu to yourself. You could take the bus down, eat lunch, and then come back up, but that seems like a hassle and you have to pay for two bus transfers.  If you only want to spend a half day at the citadel, and you don’t want to spend it with other people, come in the afternoon.

Okay, back to the sungate. You know that saying about how God laughs at your plans? Well, it applies here. While we were eating lunch, it began to rain, and when we re-entered the citadel, it was still raining, and the rocks on the way up the vantage point above were wet and a little slippery.  Not to mention that Chad was already having a hard time with the height of the vantage point. We decided not to make the hour hike up (and hour back down) to the sungate because of the weather.  But, if you want to hike to the sungate, here is how you do it. Please note that all of the following pictures regarding the sungate are borrowed from the internet.

Okay, so, right behind you as you stand on the landing above getting amazing pictures is another mountain.  The sungate is located on that mountain.MPsun-gate-2This is what the path to get up looks like: MPSun-Gate-TrailAnd this is the sungate: MPSun-Gate-Machu-Picchu1Apparently, the view from the sungate is this: MPmachu-pichu-peru view from sungateIn my opinion, the best view is the one I described for you above from the landing. It seems to be the only view that offers a complete view of the citadel. If you are doing the 4-day Inca Trail hike, you will actually be entering the citadel from the sungate and making your way down into the ruins!

Whether you hiked up to the sungate or you are standing on the landing, you need to come down to make your way into the ruins.  You have two options. The first is to backtrack the way you came to get up to the vantage point. I don’t recommend this option.  The second is to walk on the landing to the farthest end away from the guardhouse until you get to the corner and you see a small narrow step-down that puts you onto the terrace below the landing. This is also the way you would go to reach the Inca Bridge, which we also planned to do, but did not because of the weather and because there are some sheer drops on the trail, which Chad was not cool with. Also, you can’t actually cross the Inca Bridge. If you want to trek it, here is a guide. It takes about 40 minutes to an hour total.

So to get into the actual ruins, you follow the terraces to the main gate. As you make your way down, there is another smaller landing where you can stop and take a picture, but it’s not as good as the one above.mp19You will continue to meander down the terraces until you reach the main gate, which looks like this: mpmaingateHere are some of the highlights of the ruins: MP21
Neither order cheap viagra is a good option. Spiritually there order cheap viagra thought about that is a loss of hope and an attitude of “I can beat this,” their immunity was strengthened. Mobile users of these two social media buy levitra canada handles can make use of this pill to get enough erection in his penis for sexual intercourse. As per health studies, weak parasympathetic nervous system best buy on viagra is mainly responsible for enhancing blood flow to genitals.
mp22The Sacred Rock (which you are NOT allowed to touch):
mpsacredrockThe reflecting pools: mppoolsThe Temple of the Condor: mpvulture2

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mpllama3The only other sites of significance which are missing from the above are the Temple of the Three Windows  and the Intihuatana Stone, which requires a small climb to reach, and the way down is worse than the way up.

If you are brave enough to climb Huayna Picchu, you may (or may not) want to take a look at the trail. I did, and that is when I decided that I didn’t need that in my life. I am not scared of heights, but the fact that some parts require you to crawl on (or butt-slide down) the rocks of a VERY narrow path with a super sheer drop and pass over a rickety wooden ladder contraption, coupled with the fact that I would likely be doing this alone (for FOUR hours) because there was no way on God’s green Earth that Chad was getting anywhere near that mountain, was enough for me to make up my mind. If you want to give it a go, here is a guide. And, just so we are clear, you are going to be hiking to the top of the mountain you see in the back of this picture down here:MPHPWe spent the entire day at the citadel. We exited the citadel at around 4:00 p.m. (it closes at 4:30 p.m.), and Chad stopped to have a beer while we waited for the next bus down to Aguas Calientes. In case you were wondering, the beer he’s drinking is Cusquena. There are a few locally brewed beers in Peru; but, in Chad’s opinion, this Cusquena Golden Lager is the best Peruvian beer.

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MPAGAfter a long day, it was finally time to check into our hotel, and upon arrival, we were pleased to learn that we had been upgraded to a suite! mphotle

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mphotelbathroomThe hotel property is really nice. It has a village feel and is lushly landscaped.  The property has 214 bird species on property and the world’s largest native orchid collection (372 species)! They also have a spa and a working tea plantation. You can enjoy guided bird watching or orchid walks, as well as a visit to the tea plantation, all of which are included in your stay. Breakfast and dinner are also included, and the common areas are very cozy. mphotel3

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mphotelbarAfter dinner, we enjoyed our in-room fire place and some much needed rest! mphotel4The next morning, it was pouring, so any hopes we had of re-visiting the citadel were washed away.  Instead, we opted to visit the hotel’s Spectacled Bear Conservation Center, which, in concert with NGO Inkaterra Asociación and the Protected Natural Areas National Service, rescues these bears found in bad captivity conditions. The Spectacled Bear, also known as the Andean Bear, is the only bear species native to the Southern Hemisphere and was the inspiration for Paddington Bear! There are currently two bears in the habitat, and you make a small donation of approximately $10.00 per person to participate in this activity. It is well worth it and I highly recommend it!mphotel6

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mphotel8After visiting the bears, we had a massage and then lunch before boarding the train back to Cusco. The train ride back is long, and apparently, after the meal, they feel the need to entertain you.  All of a sudden music started playing and a costumed, Mardi Gras-like devil came dancing through the aisles. It was called Saqra, or maybe his dance was called Saqra. Quite frankly, I don’t know.  All I know is that it was strangely entertaining. In case you were wondering, his costume is not modeled after the gay flag.  Instead, it is modeled after the flag of Cusco, which happens to look like the gay flag.mptrainfun2And if that wasn’t enough, the costumed devil was the MC for a fashion show that the train attendants put on, modeling the items that you could purchase on-board from them, like wraps, ponchos, coats, sweaters, and scarves made from alpaca fur. They were literally using the aisle as a cat walk. It is one of the oddest things I have ever seen happen on transportation, and that is saying something, since I have seen some pretty wild things in my travels. mptrainfunAt least Chad was amused!mptrain3And, to top it all off, when we arrived at the train station, more costumed Mardi Gras devils (male and female) were waiting on the platform for us, dancing around! I swear it was the oddest thing I have ever seen; but it had been such a long day that I didn’t even care because we had 45 minutes of driving ahead of us to get to the hotel!

Anyway, I hope you found this guide to Machu Picchu useful. I can’t wait to hear all about your Machu Picchu trip! Until then, happy trails to you!

 

 

Peru’s Sacred Valley: Land of the Incas (and all their stairs)

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If you are planning a trip to Peru, Machu Picchu is likely the reason you are visiting.  In order to do that, you must visit the Sacred Valley, and, as Chad and I learned in the five days we spent there, there is much more to the Sacred Valley then just Machu Picchu.

We arrived in the Sacred Valley on a domestic flight from Lima to Cusco.  We flew Avianca Airlines coming in, and if we could do it over, we would’ve gone with LATAM (formerly LAN Airlines), as we experienced an inexplicable FOUR HOUR delay (as in Avianca NEVER provided an explanation for the delay or why their later scheduled flights to Cusco and other flights to Cusco on LATAM Airlines continued to depart as we sat there waiting), which cut into our touring schedule for our first day in the Sacred Valley. When we finally got to Cusco, we were greeted by this as we stepped off the plane:

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Cusco sits at an altitude of 11,200 feet above sea-level, so one of the main concerns when visiting Cusco is altitude sickness.  Chewing on coca leaves and drinking coca tea are supposed to ease the symptoms of altitude sickness. The significance of taking three coca leaves is that the Peruvians believe that three coca leaves bring good luck. However (and I am NOT a doctor, I am not giving you medical advice, and you should consult your doctor about this), you should be aware that consuming coca may cause you to test positive for cocaine, as the drug is the derivative of the plant. That being said, Chad and I had no issue whatsoever with the altitude (and did not consume any coca products), other than being a little winded when we were climbing the millions of stairs necessary to reach almost every historical site of significance. This is due to the lack of oxygen at that altitude.  If you are worried about the altitude, there is a medication called Diamox (Acetazolamidethat you can be prescribed and can take with you for the trip, but if you are allergic to sulfa-based drugs (like I am), you cannot take this, either (again, please consult with your doctor). Otherwise, the best advice, especially if you are staying in Cusco upon arrival (which I do not recommend), is to take a nap as soon as you get to your hotel, take it easy for the first day (as in, don’t start your Inca Trail hike (if that is what you are doing) on day one), drink plenty of water, and avoid alcohol and drug use. The recommended itinerary is to immediately head to the lower altitude of the Sacred Valley, like Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Urubamba, or Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu, and then make your way back up to Cusco, which is precisely what Chad and I did.

Day 1

Our first stop en-route to lower elevation was to Awana Kancha (ah-wan-ah-kahn-cha), a small camelid farm dedicated to the animals and intricate textiles produced from their wool. You can see and (sometimes) pet the resident llamas and alpacas and see locals weaving using traditional techniques and dying methods. There is also a shop on the property that sells the woven textiles made on the property.

Awana Kancha

camelids

We learned the difference in quality between the wool of a llama and an alpaca and saw the traditional method of making colored dyes for the wool using natural plants.

dye colors

dye process

dyed wool

dyed yarn

Next we watched the local women weave while looking after their children and chewing on coca leaves.

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children

We also learned about all the different varieties of corn, potatoes, and quinoa (including a new variety of quinoa that was recently discovered) that are grown in Peru.

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After our visit was over, we headed to our next stop, Pisac.  Because of our flight delay, we had to skip our visit to the Incan site by the same name (well, actually, our guide misinformed us that they were closed, which turned out to be untrue), but we were able to make it to the Pisac market.  In hindsight, I would have opted to go to the ruins and skip the market, so if you are faced with a similar choice, opt for the ruins. The market is very touristy and filled with locals chasing you to buy their crafts or otherwise begging for money.  If you are going to shop the markets, bring cash (the Peruvian equivalent, called Soles- La Nueva Sole, to be exact- which you can get from a foreign currency place or your bank before you leave (the cheapest option) or at the airport, your hotel, or designated exchange houses) and be prepared to bargain.  Never pay the asking price. You should pay about 75 to 80 percent of the asking price, and don’t be scared to say, “no thanks” and walk away. They will come running after you to make the deal.

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Pisac

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A note about this next picture. I regret taking it.  First, I am a HUGE advocate of not exploiting women, children, and especially animals and of not supporting customs, activities, or sites during travel that do the same.  That is exactly what is happening here, and I am ashamed to say that I violated my own rule without even realizing it until after the picture was taken.  You will see these women all over Peru coming up to you asking you if you want to take a picture with their cute little lambs.  I mean, who doesn’t love a cute baby lamb wearing a colorful yarn crown?!?  The woman on the left literally yanked the lamb out of her bag by its neck! I was horrified! Then they hold the animal by its neck so you can take a picture of it.  After you get your picture you have to pay the women, as in each woman.  Usually 1 Sole does it, but they will try to get more from you, chasing after you to also pay the lamb! Honestly, I was (and am) mad at myself for taking this picture, and I urge you to please avoid taking pictures like this. The only reason I am posting it is to help you learn from and avoid my mistake.

pisac market

Another thing you should be prepared for while visiting Peru is the astonishing number of stray dogs you will find all over Peru, sleeping on the ground, running around in traffic, and eating garbage. They do not really seem malnourished, but this was still heartbreaking to see.  I had been warned of this by a colleague who went to Peru before me and who knows how much I love dogs. As a result, I came prepared with dog treats to feed all the dogs in Peru.  We also bought street food and fed it to them. All of the dogs we encountered we so very friendly, and I wanted to keep them all. Helping these dogs made me feel a little better about my lamb faux pas.

feed dogs

Our final stop of the day was to the Lamay community, where we visited a local orphanage that was home to over 50 girls ages two to fourteen. When Chad and I travel, we like to participate in at least one charitable activity that supports the local community.  For Peru, we worked with our agent to find and support the Santa Rosa de Lamay Orphanage.  On that end, our agent arranged for us to make a donation to the orphanage which would provide a school kit to every girl.  We also asked the orphanage to provide us with a list of items they needed that we could bring from the States. Sadly, they asked us for toiletries for the girls; so, before we left for our trip, we made toiletries kits that we brought with us. We had several donations of toiletries from our family, friends, and from local business, and I would like to thank all my friends, family, and members of Leadership Broward‘s Class XXXIV who kindly donated their travel-sized toiletries to us.  I would especially like to thank the Riverside Hotel on Las Olas Boulevard in Fort Lauderdale, Florida and Parker Dentistry in Hollywood, Florida, who generously donated tons of hotel samples and toothpaste and mouth wash for our kits. kits

kits box

The orphanage sits on a beautiful piece of property with Andes Mountains as its backdrop.  There is an outdoor play area, living quarters, a school house/recreation room, a bakery, a pottery room, a weaving room, and a shop.

orphanage

This was probably the most rewarding experience of our trip.  The girls were so excited to meet us, running out to hug and kiss us and to hold our hands as they lead us into their home.

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They were literally so grateful to receive pencils, notebooks, and toiletries.

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They sang us songs and gave us a tour of their school house.

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We learned that all of the girls learn to either bake, weave, or make pottery, and their goods are sold in the community to support the efforts of the orphanage, which, oddly enough, was started by a group of German dentists and is run by nuns.

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The saddest part was when we were leaving and all the girls were hugging us, thanking us, and waiving good bye.  One of the nuns was so grateful that she cried as she thanked us, and a little girl asked me if she could come home with us. I literally felt so terrible about leaving, but we were both so glad we got the chance to make a small difference in the lives of these girls.

At long last, it was time to make our way to the hotel, the Aranwa Sacred Valley, which is a beautiful hotel, located on a huge, historic property. I liked this hotel because it was in a secluded little village and was very peaceful.  It has two on-property restaurants, as well as a bar and sushi bar, an on-property museum, church, library, movie theater, gym, spa, and shops.  It also has a beautiful pool and orchid greenhouse. The property is also home to roaming peacocks and llamas, which spit, by the way.

This is the view from our room:

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This is the pool:

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Here are some more views of the property amenities:

Behind me is the movie theater. And, yes, that’s a cart which had fresh popcorn every evening.

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This is the library, filled with travel books and novels:

library

This was part of the museum:

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hotel library

This is the church:

hotel church

I am obsessed with peacocks, by the way.

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peacock

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This is a live action shot that Chad took of a llama spitting at me because I tried to pet him as he was eating. I’m actually surprised that the photo came out so clearly, as Chad was laughing hysterically as he took the shot! But then again, he is used to me getting chased by wild animals, like the time I got chased by monkey in Zimbabwe, or pecked on the head by an ostrich in Cape Town, and got wrapped in a hug by an elephant in Chiang Mai…but, I digress.

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By the way, this hotel has a great breakfast spread with an omelette station (my fave!) and very friendly staff.  Breakfast was included with the room. If you know me, you know that I LOVE breakfast, and I do not function without it. I am literally hangry (hungry + angry) until I eat breakfast.

breakfast

And, in case you wondering, this is what the room looked like:

room

The bed was super comfy, and the shower was huge– literally a separate room with a standing shower and an over-sized Jacuzzi tub.  Oh, and you should know (because I know I wish I did before I came and packed all my converters and adapters) that Peru uses the same electrical current and outlets as the United States, so you can plug your chargers and other electronics right into the wall!

The only other place I think we would’ve stayed at in the area is the Tambo del Inka, which is a Starwood property and is closer to town.  It also has a private train station at which Peru Rail stops en route to Machu Picchu.

If you are a crazy person, you could stay in the Skylodge Adventure Suites. I bet you are thinking, “Oh how exciting, what is that?” I am glad you asked. They are three completely transparent, hanging bedroom capsules measuring 24 feet in length and 8 feet in height and width that are made from aerospace aluminum and weather resistant polycarbonate and that are somehow mounted to  the side of  huge mountain, over a 1,000 feet above the valley floor. Eight people fit inside the three capsules, and you get a 300 degree view of the Sacred Valley from the capsules.  Apparently, there is even a private bathroom up there, which first, thank God because I’d be pooping my pants the entire time, and second, I am not sure how you get privacy in a tiny transparent pod of death that you are sharing with seven other crazy people (not to mention, I doubt there is plumbing up there, so…), but maybe you can try it out and let me know! There is also a small platform that is completely open and also suspended where they serve you dinner and breakfast.

How do you get there? Easy, all you have to do is climb 1,312 feet to the top of Via Ferrata, which takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours or you can hike an intrepid trail through zip lines! You have to wear a helmet and harnesses and be guided up.  By the way, I hope you pack light because you have to climb with all your crap on your back! Oh, and if that wasn’t enough, apparently, at some point, there is a sky bridge where you walk across a tightrope while holding another cable. To get down the next morning, you have to climb even higher and then you just zip line all the way down (7 zip lines to get down).

Who would do this? Lots and lots of people.  In fact, it usually sells out months in advance, and every single day that we were in the Sacred Valley, we saw groups of people scaling the mountain to go up.  People rave about it on tripadvisor.  Here are some visuals that I borrowed from the internet because Chad and I chose life.

This is a zoomed shot because from the ground, you have to really be looking for these pods to even notice them.

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Someone got a side shot!

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I imagine that a drone was used to obtain this picture.

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This is how you get there, scaling up this little iron ladder that has been installed up the side of the mountain! Oh look, kids with no hands!  Notice that mom is nowhere to be found. This is like a meme for why you never leave your kids unattended with their dad!

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Doesn’t that sky bridge look nice a safe?

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Apparently, this is what the pods look like inside:

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See that hole at the top there? That’s how you get in.

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And then this is how you get down:

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Day 2

I am glad I ate all that breakfast because Day 2 in the Sacred Valley would test our fitness endurance levels. One thing is for sure – the Inca people loved heights (which was bad for Chad who doesn’t share the same love) and they loved stairs! Ladies, you can leave your cute booties or sandals (depending on the season you visit) behind, and just wear sneakers and gym clothes. Trust me on this.

Our adventure began in Chinchero, which the Incas believed was the birthplace of the rainbow. That is probably because it is over 12,000 feet above sea-level, and it was the highest place we visited in Peru (even higher than Cusco). It is also the center of weaving in Peru, and it has some of the most fertile soil in the Sacred Valley, so many potatoes are grown there.  It also has one of the more popular markets.

On the way to Chinchero, you pass through some beautiful vistas, like this one:

chicnhero vistas

Once you reach the town, you must do some walking to get to the archaeological complex.  I suggest you take your time, drink water, and take breaks when needed. You are already pretty high up, and you have to wind your way through some pretty steep roads to get there.

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You’ll know you arrived when you reach the market.

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chinchero market

If you keep to the right of the market, you will see a Spanish colonial church that was built around 1607 on top of the remains of what was believed to be an Incan palace.  You can see the entrance on the right in the picture above. The church is small, and you are not allowed to take pictures inside, but it has a beautiful, ornate painted ceiling.

chinchero square

As you exit the church, on the right is the pathway to the Incan aqueducts and terraces, many of which are still in use today for farming and agricultural purposes.

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You can climb down, cross the bridge that you see in the top picture, and walk on the terraces.

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On the opposite side of these terraces, are large fields that the local people use to dry potatoes.

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On the day we were there, an excavation was in progress.

chinchero excavation

FYI- if you need to use a public restroom at any of the archaeological sites, there is a 50/50 chance that you will need to pay to get in. The cost is usually 1 Sole (or approximately .30 cents). You pay the attendant and then they cut you this lovely bathroom ticket that nobody collects (I suppose you are supposed to keep it as a memento from the time you peed in Peru). Here is some advice – bring your own toilet paper and some hand sanitizer.  You only get caught without T.P. once (for me, this was in Greece about 10 years ago) before you learn a valuable life lesson, and you travel prepared.  Just take a roll from the hotel, and keep it in your bag. You will be the most popular person in the bathroom, and not for a TMZ-worthy reason! You are welcome! Now let’s get on with the tour, shall we?

chincheor toilet ticket

Our next stop was to the impressive terraces of Moray. Moray is a collection of three colossal terraces that look like a large amphitheater.  The circular terraces recreate 20 different types of microclimates.  In fact, there can be a temperature difference of as much as 27 degrees Fahrenheit between the top and bottom of the terraces. While you can walk around the terraces, you cannot climb down them and to the center, but that doesn’t stop some morons from trying.

The drive into Moray is beautiful and a little off-road. Some crazy people bike in.  It is a LONG bike ride on very uneven terrain, and they looked miserable.

moray drive

When you finally reach Moray. The terraces will be on your left and a market is set up in front and to the right.  This is the view from the vista point:

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If you keep to the left of the first (and largest) terrace (as you face the terrace from the vista point with your back to the market and parking area), you can access the downward path to go into the terrace.

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You can walk a semi circle around the largest terrace, and then you reach these ancient stairs to climb out and to the area where you find the medium terrace.

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Make a right as you reach the top of the staircase, and an upward path will take you out on the other side of where you began (which should be the left hand side of the large terrace if you are standing with your back to it).  Walk straight through a small field to reach the smallest terrace.

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Apparently, you can hire a shaman to perform a spiritualistic ritual/blessing with you in the center of this small circle, but be careful that you don’t hire a fake shaman who offer these services to rip tourists off.  A reputable tour company can help you find a legitimate shaman if you are interested in doing this. They usually sacrifice animals, so we were out for that. Most Peruvians (even the modern Peruvians) believe in Pachamama, or mother earth, and participate in spirit rituals to ask for safety, wealth, and health from or give thanks to Pachamama.

moray 10

After Moray, we visited the famous ancient salt ponds of Maras. Maras is accessible through a narrow, (mostly) paved mountain road.

maras

There is a vista point where you can stop and see the salt flats from above.

maras9

Once you reach the entrance, you have to walk down a dirt road and through a market to reach the flats.

maras road

At the end of the market is another vista point before you actually enter the flats.

maras 2

To get in, you have to walk on a narrow, wet, and slippery elevated path.

maras 5

Wikipedia gives the best description of Maras: “Since pre-Inca times, salt has been obtained in Maras by evaporating salty water from a local subterranean stream. The highly salty water emerges at a spring, a natural outlet of the underground stream. The flow is directed into an intricate system of tiny channels constructed so that the water runs gradually down onto the several hundred ancient terraced ponds.”

Walking in and around the salt mines is permitted, but discouraged by locals.  There is a place where you can walk in to get good pictures that is tolerated by the locals, but they prefer that you do not walk deep into the flats for several reasons.  First, it is narrow, wet, slippery, and dangerous. And, second, these are working salt ponds, so, if you contaminate one of the pools (by stepping in it, for example), you just ruined that entire harvest of salt.  Also, each pond is in a different stage of the process, so you could be potentially ruining a pond that has been months in the making.

This is near the top as soon as you get in and is fairly easy to get to.  Mind you, it is still a VERY narrow walkway that is wet and very slippery. Standing here is okay (and standing where the people behind us are is also okay).  Going any further down is discouraged, but again, that doesn’t stop hoards of idiots from doing it.

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maras 4

Like these idiots here:

maras 5

You see all those footsteps above? That was a nearly ready pond that is now ruined. You are supposed to stay on the elevated, narrow dirt path above the pond. If that scares you or you don’t have good balance, don’t go in.

The ponds look solid, but most of them aren’t.  Oh, and this is on the side of a pretty high and steep mountain so if you are off on the edge here and slip, good luck to ya!

maras 11

maras 7

Here, our guide is showing us large formations of crystallized salt and explaining the salt making process.  In the background of the picture you can see the entrance into the flats (marked by the red gates) once you come through the market.

maras 8

The finished product is collected in bags. The most popular salt found here is pink salt, which you can buy in the market above and which is a little saltier than the iodized white salt you are probably used to.  It is used more as garnishing salt than a cooking salt.

maras 6

For lunch, we went to a restaurant that was suggested by the guide that was on a beautiful piece property, but the food was not notable and it was very touristy. If you are a foodie, I think you will agree that the food in the Sacred Valley is just okay.  You can find some more traditional dishes like alpaca and guinea pig here, but the food does not hold a candle to what you can experience in Lima or even in Cusco.

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lunch place 2

lunch place

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lunch place 5

After lunch, we visited our last stop for the day, the town and fortress of Ollantaytambo (oh-yan-tie-tambo). Ollantaytambo was the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti who conquered the region, built the town and the ceremonial center.

This is a view of the town that is at the base of the Inca site. Across from the site are storage sheds that were once thought to be tombs.

Ollan town

Here is the site from the entrance so you can get a perspective of how much climbing you have to do to get to the sun gate:

ollan

ollan 12

ollan 13

This is the view from about half way up:

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At the top, you reach the sun gate.

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If you don’t want to climb, there are other parts of the site that you can visit at the base level.

ollan 7

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And there are cute baby alpacas too!

ollan 8

Well, that was it for Day 2!

Days 3-4

On Day 3, we finally made it to Aguas Calientes via the train at Ollantaytambo to visit Machu Picchu.  This warrants a post all on its own, which I have linked here as well. But, I will leave you with a little teaser:

MP teaser

MP teaser 2

Day 5

On Day 5, we left Aguas Calientes and returned to Cusco. By now we were fully acclimated as we had been going up and down in elevation since we first arrived to Cusco. Upon arrival, we checked into El Mercardo, which is a funky marketplace-inspired boutique hotel.

mercardo 4

mercardo 1

I don’t know why the property had random adult-sized rocking horses in the corridors, but I’m glad it did.

mercardo 2

mercardo 3

We only gave ourselves one day to explore Cusco, and this was a mistake.  You should allow two full days here to do the surrounding sites and the sites in the city center, so we had a very busy day before catching our flight to Lima to connect to our international flight home.

We started by visiting the fortress of Saqsawaman, the ruling palace of the Incas.

saq

Unfortunately, this site is probably best viewed aerially to see the amazing zig zag pattern of the rock walls.

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Just so you have an idea of how tall the walls are, Chad and I are both 5’10.

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You can climb into the complex and get a view from there.

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You can also get a great view of the city of Cusco.

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The stone work is incredible (there’s no mortar in those joints people, just perfectly chiseled giant rocks!) especially considering that it is zig-zagging.

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There are even some solid pieces of rock that are curved!

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This was the main gate in:

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Cusco also has a large white Jesus statute (a smaller version of the more famous one in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil), and its claim to fame is that it is the highest elevation Jesus!

saq17

This is the giant circular structure that you saw on the map, but you can’t really tell from the ground, and you aren’t allowed in it either.

saq11

Up next, we visited Tambomachay.  It is uncertain what the purpose of this site is, but there are tombs there that were likely used during important holiday for the Inca, and the Inca Trail from Cusco starts there.

It is a pretty steep walk up, and the elevation is higher than Cusco but lower than Chinchero.

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From there, we headed to Puka Pukara, which is a site of military ruins from the Inca Empire.

puka
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You can get a great view of the valley from here and even see parts of the Inca Trail.

valley

Our next stop was Q’enko, which is one of the largest holy places in the Cusco region.  It is called the temple of the moon, and it was believed to be a place where sacrifices and mummification took place.

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You use very narrow tunnels to get through the site.

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This is where it is believed that mummification took place:

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We then made our way back into the city center of Cusco to visit Qorikancha, the most important temple in the Inca Empire, dedicated primarily to the Sun God. When the Spanish came, they just built a church over it (well partially over it; more like adjacent to it), which still exists today, and it is massive! There is a black Jesus inside that church that has a pretty cool little story behind it.  Apparently, because of the materials used to make the Jesus statute, over years of having candles burning next to it, the Jesus slowly turned black. The indigenous people thought that Jesus morphed to look more like them. They have tried several times to restore the statute, but cannot. It is also believed that the Jesus performs miracles because during some pretty bad floods, the church brought the Jesus out to the city square and prayed for the flooding to stop, and it did!

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This is the temple of the sun:

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We ended our day in the city center of Cusco, where we had lunch at Limo, a fantastic restaurant owned by a group that owns many fantastic restaurants in Cusco and which had a great view of the center.  We also visited the Machu Picchu museum, which is small, but tells the story of Hiram Bingham’s excavation of Machu Picchu.

cusco5

Limo is located to the left of this church above as you face the church. You have to walk through an almost hidden corridor before you reach an atrium that has a staircase that leads you to the restaurant. I wish I had food spotted our lunch because it was beautiful and amazing, but we were so hungry, we just dug right in!

limo1

One last pisco sour, and this one infused with Chad’s new favorite fruit, the golden berry.

limo

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cusco

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If you are planning to visit the Sacred Valley, and Cusco especially, start training by setting your treadmill’s elevation on high!

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The night flights out of Lima are no joke! Our flight left after midnight, as most flights do, and behind us was the economy line at 9:00 p.m.! Chad is all smiles because, if you read my post on Lima, you know that we got a GREAT deal on first class tickets which allowed us to avoid this mess!

cusco aiport

And, we got to relax inside this lounge, which apparently serves first and business class for all flights out of Lima.  It has an indoor and outdoor seating area, with food and beverages, as well as a lounge of massive recliners. It is also packed!

csuscoairport lounge

After the day we had, all I was looking forward to was this:

sleep 2

Most people do not end their trip in Cusco like we did.  Most go on to visit the Amazon for a couple of days.  In hindsight, I wish that we had added that to our itinerary, but I guess we left something for next time!

When it was all said and done, we paid approximately $6,000.00 for the land-based portion of the trip, which included all hotels, all private transfers, all domestic travel by plane, train, and bus, all breakfasts, two lunches, one dinner, all privately guided excursions with driver and bilingual guide, and all entrance tickets to all sites. The price did not include international flights, the remaining meals, gratuities, the donation to the orphanage, and items we purchased in-country.  This was an eight-day adventure, but we only missed four work days!

I hope you found this post helpful in planning your own Peruvian Adventure!  I would love to hear your feedback and suggestions so leave me a comment below or send me an e-mail.  Until then, adios y viajes seguros!

 

 

 

 

 

 

24 Hours in Lima, Peru: A Gastronomical Adventure

 

Lima Cover

Living in South Florida, Peru is a relatively inexpensive and easy destination to reach.  The flight to Lima, Peru (the capital city) is just under 6 hours. When I started researching flights, I was elated to find that the difference between first class tickets and economy tickets was only a couple of hundred dollars, rather than the several thousands of dollars that you usually see.  Also, since the flight leaves, arrives, and returns in the evening, I thought the splurge was worth it to get those lie-flat beds for the return flight and to catch a quick nap before arriving.  This ended up being one of the best decisions of this trip! Of course, I opted to book with my favorite airline, Delta, which routes through Atlanta instead of flying direct from Miami for two reasons: 1) you get to avoid the hell that is MIA, and 2) more miles (and miles towards status).

The nice people at Delta are ready with the champagne as you board:

me 1st

They also offer a three-course menu prepared by Chef Michelle Bernstein during the flight, in addition to the gourmet snacks that they provide before and after the meal. Also, there is free alcohol, which is why Chad looks like he’s about to burst in this picture!

Chad 1st

When you get to your seat, you find a full-size, real pillow and duvet provided by Westin Heavenly, a real pair of headphones, and a Tumi travel kit!

goodies

I bet you’re wondering what is inside that little sucker.  Wonder no more.  They provide you with an eye mask, socks, lip gloss, lotion, toothpaste and toothbrush, mouth wash, tissues, earplugs, and a pen.

tumi

So before dinner, I was like:
in flight

After dinner, they brought out an entire dessert cart where you could pick whatever and as many desserts as you wanted.  I thought Chad was going to hurt himself!

dessert cart

I went with the chocolate sundae:

Dessert

And then I was like, “Bye, Chad. See you in Lima!”

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I am glad I took that nap because when we landed in Lima, it was past midnight, and this, apparently, is the time that all the flights get into Lima. Take a look at the lines at passport control and the amount of people in the arrival hall at the airport! See how unimpressed Chad is? I’m pretty sure he is exhibiting signs of “Active Bitch Face” right here.

immigration

Here’s a little tip: when you pass through passport control in Lima, they give you a little card. DO NOT lose this card.  Every single hotel asks for it because tourists don’t pay tax on hotels and food (but, you do pay tax on alcohol)! Also, you need to return that little card to passport control when you leave the country. If you lose it, you have to get it replaced, which apparently takes a couple of days.

airport arrival

Although the lines look long, they actually get you through pretty quickly, and, once we collected our luggage, we found our driver in the arrival hall and made our way to our hotel in the Miraflores area of Lima.  This, by the way, is pretty much the only area where you should book a hotel.

As is true for many capitol cities, Lima doesn’t have a whole lot to offer, unless you are a foodie.  If you are a foodie, stay a couple of days because Lima is having an extraordinary culinary moment. Just make sure you aren’t trying to get into the hottest restaurants on a Sunday because this is a catholic country and, as we learned, all of the greats are closed for dinner!  Also, pre-book your reservations if you want any chance of eating at any of Lima’s greats, like Central (which was voted number 4 on the list of the world’s 50 best restaurants and which was heart-breakingly closed on the only day we had in Lima, a Sunday), Malabar (which was voted number 7 on the list of the Latin America’s 50 best restaurants and is also closed on Sundays), Maido (which was voted number 13 on the list of the world’s 50 best restaurants, and is also closed on Sunday), and Astrid y Gaston, where we were able to get a lunch reservations since it too was closed for dinner. More on this later.

Even if you are not a foodie, it is worth spending a day in Lima or a few days if you want to take a couple of day trips from Lima.  Hindsight being 20/20, I would’ve spent some extra time in Lima, not only to eat at Central, but also to visit (at least) the Nazca Lines. Here are 7 other pretty awesome day-trips from Lima that I wish I knew about while I was trip planning.

But, since we only had a (Sun)day, we made the most of it.  We started our day with a trip to the local market before our cooking and Pisco sour class.  On the menu was ceviche (which the Latin Americans call/pronounce cebiche), a causa, and lomo saltado. Our first stop was to a fish stand to scope out the day’s catches.

fish stand

Next up was the veggie stand.

veggie stand

Did you know that more than 4,000 varieties of native potatoes grow in the Andean highlands of Peru?  Also,the birth place of the potato is in South America, and it likely came from Peru, as scientific evidence confirms that potatoes were domesticated as early as 10,000 years ago in the High Andes of southeastern Peru. Below are just a few varieties.

potatoes

Last, but not least, we stopped at this colorful fruit stand, but mostly just to eat!

fruit stand

Apparently, the owner of this fruit stand is famous among chefs as evidenced by the banner above which depicts him posing with some of the world’s great chefs. I was a fan because he was a sweet man who just kept feeding me exotic fruit!

fruit stand owner

This, by the way, is a cacao fruit, which eventually becomes chocolate.  Chocolate comes from a fruit, fruit is healthy, so chocolate is healthy, and there you go. (If you did not get the last sentence, then you’ve obviously never seen My Big Fat Greek Wedding, so as soon as you are done reading this blog post, you need to do that next!)

cacao

Our next stop was to El Senorio de Sulco, a restaurant that prepares traditional Peruvian cuisine, to learn how to make (and to eat) some traditional Peruvian dishes.  The restaurant is decorated with authentic, original examples of Incan pottery and cultural masks, but the real art is in the kitchen!

El Senorio

masks

pottery

Here is where we had our private cooking class:

cooking

The first dish was the ceviche:

ceviche prep

ceviche

finbal ceviche

Followed by the causa:

causa 2
causa

And finally, the lomo saltado, which by the way was the best lomo saltado that we ate in Peru:

lomo prep

lomo cook

lomo

After graduating from Peruvian Cooking 101, it was off to the bar!

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Chad is listening intently to learn the proper ratios for Pisco sour:

pisco class

The first of many Pisco sours on the trip:

pisco taste

pisco 2

Then we (i.e., Chad) tried the local beer, Cusquena, which he liked:

beer

We also tried an alcohol that is made from coco leaves. It’s kind of like Peruvian moonshine:

coco leaves

coco alcohol

By then, we were all happy, and it was time to go to lunch.  Yes, lunch! Don’t judge!

pisco final3
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My favorite part of this gastronomic romp through Lima was eating at Astrid y Gaston. The restaurant is located inside Casa Moreyra, an old style house of the San Isidro Hacienda, which is more than 300 years old.AYG 2

The property is huge and has its own chapel and garden from where their herbs come.

property

This is the reception area where you check in for your reservation:

check in

Because the property used to be a mansion, there are several internal dining rooms as well as outdoor dining spaces:

AYG inside

 

patio

Even the bathrooms are cool.  It is a cylindrical pod in a room with four stalls:
AYG bathorrom

AYG bathorrom 2

We sat in the greenhouse, which had upside down plants hanging from the ceiling and an open-air kitchen where the food was being prepared:

greenhouse

kitchen

They offer a tasting menu which is about $93 per person or you can order a la cart, which is what we chose since Chad and I didn’t want to eat rabbit or guinea pig (which is a delicacy in Peru, along with Alpaca, which we did try):

menu

Our meal started with a variety of breads, spreads, and a Pisco:

starter

pisco AYG

Then we shared an AMAZING scallop dish and a beautiful and tasty ceviche:

scallops

ceviche AYG

For our main dishes, Chad had the pork:

pork

And I had the fish:

fish

For dessert, we had the Miracle Bomb, which is basically a heavenly sweets party in a chocolate ball!

miracle bomb

open bomb

At the end, we were served a Pisco-filled chocolate with a sponge cake. Gaston Acurio’s wife has begun promoting Peru’s chocolate, traveling around Peru looking for the best native cacao.  In 2012, she started her chocolate line, Melate.

finish ayg

Gaston Acurio is also the owner of La Mar, a ceviche bar in Lima that does not take reservations, but is open on Sunday afternoon. Fortunately, his second La Mar restaurant, which has a more expansive menu than the one in Lima, is located in Miami!

After all that eating, it was time to walk around the city for a bit. But, before we did that, we had to stop at Lima’s most popular ice cream spot, Amorelado, which, by the way, is right across the street from La Mar!

amorelado

This place was featured on Andrew Zimmern’s Delicious Destinations. The owner shops the markets daily and handmakes her ice cream from the exotic fruits of Peru. They are known for their Lucuma ice cream, which is made from the lucuma fruit and is unique to Peru.  The fruit is not so great when eaten raw, but makes a nice, sweet ice cream.  They also have other unique flavors such as chirimoya, maracayá, and Mamacocho. Also, they are open on Sundays!

Amorelado cup

Okay, seriously, the eating on this day became ridiculous.  But that is okay, because we have a city to explore before our dinner reservations, of course! First we visited downtown Lima and its churches.Lima

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Lima 2

Lima church

food coma

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convent

walls

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And because the Catholics celebrate so many saints, you are bound to run into a processional, which are like big deals and a cause for celebration.

mary

jesus

processional

Our last stop before dinner was to El Parque del Amor, which translates to Love Park and is also known as the mosaic bench park. This park is beautiful and is located along the seaside cliffs of Miraflores.

miraflores park

mosiac

benches

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In the middle of the park is the famous “El Beso” (The Kiss) statue:

the kiss

heart

It was finally time for dinner and a little bit of culture.  The only decent restaurant open on Sunday night is Huaca Pucllana, which is conveniently located next to the Huaca Pucllana ruins. The restaurant is touristy, but good, and serves traditional Peruvian dishes. When you make your reservation, make sure to ask for a table outside next to the ruins, which are lit up at night.  You can also tour the ruins before or after dinner.

HP ruins

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Alas, with very full bellies, we returned to our hotel to prepare for the next leg of the journey, the Sacred Valley of Peru. Until then, salud and buen provecho!